Sunday, August 14, 2011

Frankie's Wave

by Harry B. Sanderford

It was down to him now, the last man standing and the only one left looking east on this chilly Saturday morning dawn patrol. "Screw it" he said and set his coffee on the old Rambler's dashboard before grabbing his wetsuit out of the back seat and tugging it right side out. A quick towel change later he zipped up, unstrapped his board from the roof rack, grabbed it by the rail and flipping it once caught it one handed before tucking it under his arm and trotting off down the beach. Near the water's edge he stopped to stretch and watched the lead wave of a new set build into a perfect feathery lipped peak at the exact moment that the first rays of sunlight topped the horizon glinting green and gold through the pitching lip of the unridden tube. It was a pristine and privileged sight witnessed only on rare occasions but on this morning such beauty was unbearable. This empty perfection would not last he knew as he turned his back on the surf to follow his shadow back up the beach.

It has been awhile since I posted anything so I figured I'd give this one some more air. It was the first thing I posted on this blog when I began it last August. I wrote it after my good friend and oldest surf buddy Frankie Banks passed away from brain cancer. (That's him up there ripping in his backyard.)

It was first published by Rob on the main Six Sentences site. Thank's Rob!
And, has since been published in actual print in the Australian Surf Magazine: Kurungabaa, a journal of literature, history and ideas from the sea


Anonymous said...

I can see why they wanted to publish it. You captured that moment perfectly, and the photo rocks, too. Sorry you lost a buddy that way, Harry.

Sugar said...

A perfect tribute,'s one of your best.

L'Aussie said...

Hi Harry. I hadn't read this so I'm glad you posted it. I've been away and haven't been posting either. I love the descriptions here of the perfect morning. A wonderful tribute to your mate Frankie.


Stephen said...

Hey there Harry -- hadn't read this before. All the best adventures begin with "Screw it". Lovely description of that unridden tube.

Frankie looking good out there. St.

Stephen said...

This is a well-written piece, Harry. Some moments are only there to be enjoyed, not used. My condolences on the loss of your friend. Though his departure is well behind you, I'm sure the void of his presence is not. It's nice that you could honor him in this way; it speaks well of your friendship. Good on ya!

Steve Green said...

Hi Harry, I too haven't read this before, and I am glad that you decided to re-post it. You paint a colourful image, and have captured the moment beautifully.

Sorry to learn of your buddy Frankie, I'm sure he would be very proud of this dedication to his memory.